Diving into Jeju’s Living Legacy: Female Free divers
A Song Beneath the Waves
Before dawn breaks over Jeju’s jagged coastline, a chorus rises from the turquoise depths. It isn’t birdsong you hear, but the sharp “hoi-hoi” whistle of the island’s legendary haenyeo— women free divers who descend without oxygen tanks, trusting only their breath and age-worn tools. For centuries, these women have shaped Jeju’s culture and community with every plunge.
The Haenyeo Tradition: Guts, Grace, and Gears
On Jeju, women as young as fifteen—and some beyond eighty—don heavy rubber suits, strap on lead weights, and slip into flippers. With nothing more than a gichang (pronged rake), a jeongge homi (hand hoe), and a sturdy lung capacity, they dive down as far as ten meters, harvesting abalone, sea urchins, and seaweed for hours on end.
Breath and Survival: Each dive lasts about a minute. Surfacing, the Haenyeo emit a long whistle—part instinct, part exhale—replenishing oxygen and signaling life after the brink of risk.
Community Safety: Long ago, the dangers of underwater gathering led Haenyeo to band together. Today, senior divers take on the deepest, most perilous waters, while novices work in shallower coves.
Respecting the Sea: Government regulations protect spawning seasons and fragile marine ecosystems. Poaching during a closed season can result in fines, underscoring the Haenyeo’s role as custodians of the coastline.
Then & Now: From Stone Age to Rubber Suits
Haenyeo once dove in cotton clothing, braving icy currents at tremendous personal cost (“They used to call our work ‘earning money for the underworld to feed children in this world,’” they say). In the 1970s, Jeju’s government introduced rubber wetsuits—complete with hood, jacket, and bib-style trousers—transforming both safety and comfort. Today, miniature changing huts stand at the shore, symbols of progress for a community that has long poured sweat and saltwater into the island’s lifeblood.
Meeting Kim Chusam: A Life in the Tide
On a recent Goodmate Travel Jeju tour, we sat beside 78-year-old Haenyeo Kim Chusam, whose story bridges generations.
“I was born here, raised here, and married here,” she told us, her eyes sparkling like the sea. “I started diving when I was 15, and I haven’t stopped—sometimes my body aches, but I’ll keep going as long as I’m able.”
“Back then, the water was freezing. Now, in these rubber suits, it’s kinder. The village even built us a little changing room. Life used to be really hard… but now I make my living just by diving.”
Her pride was palpable when she spoke of a good catch—a bounty of abalone or seaweed bright enough to lift even the heaviest heart. “Being out here with the other Haenyeo makes me feel like this is where my heart finds peace.”
Why It Matters: Heritage, Sustainability, Hope
Jeju’s Haenyeo culture—recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage—embodies resilience and respect for nature. It reminds us that true adventure involves both discovery and stewardship. When you meet these women, you’re not just observing a tradition; you’re joining a living community that continues to dive, laugh, struggle, and triumph together.
At Goodmate Travel, we believe the soul of Jeju isn’t found in guidebooks but in the salty laughter of a Haenyeo surfacing at dawn. Book our Jeju’s hidden wonders tour and dive into this breathtaking legacy. Watch, learn, and perhaps even try a breath-hold dive under the guidance of these extraordinary women—because some stories are meant to be lived, not just told.
